Telmo Rodríguez
The Free Bacchus Story
Telmo Rodríguez left his family's Rioja estate in the 1990s and spent the following decades doing something unusual: travelling Spain looking for forgotten vineyards in regions the modern industry had written off, and restarting them.
Málaga, Rueda, Toro, Cebreros, Rías Baixas — the project has been to recover old plantings and local varieties before they disappeared entirely, which in several cases happened with a few years to spare. The farming across the estates is organic and biodynamic in practice.

Eighty hectares, divided into three hundred and fifty-five separate plots scattered from Málaga to Valdeorras, at an average of under a quarter of a hectare each. This is the precise opposite of how a modern wine business is assembled.
Las Beatas, the recovered hillside in Rioja Alavesa, is the flagship at around three hundred and fifty dollars. Tim Atkin's Rioja Report has awarded Gold.
The certification is not complete, and we say so. Track B here reflects verified practice with certification underway rather than a producer who has declined to certify, a different situation from the philosophical refusals elsewhere on this list, and worth distinguishing.
“the future is in the past”
Why it’s remarkable
Free Bacchus Verification
- Biodynamic and organic practice confirmed; certification process underway, not yet complete.
If you’re buying
Cheat sheet
Save it to your phone. Everything you need to recognise this producer, and three things worth saying about it, at a glance in a shop or across a table.